Hospital de Orbigo

Somehow, via the Camino forums, I knew this was a special place...no-one said anything in particular, but the name drew me...as did the entry to our aubergue for the evening.
Walking through the ancient doors, the patio/gardens just pull you in. The host is lancing a walkers blisters, and I wait until he is finished. He stamps my Camino passport, and shows me the rooms..WC here, internet there, washing tubs and clotheslines over there, rooms full of bunks here, here, here, and here. We get a room to ourselves, but it soon has 5 walkers as well. We've a lot of respect for walkers, they travel a difficult path.
Today was pretty easy, a late start, we change plans yet again and cycle out of Leon, not fun. Traffic, smog, beeping drivers, all conspire to keep us on our toes, with sensors on high.
Finally, though...out in the fields again. 41k today, to Hospital de Orbigo. The longest bridge on the Camino is here, and a long story too. The church steeple has four storks nests, all fully occupied. Damn, those are BIG birds! Think small terydoctyls..with beaks and feathers...Seriously, as big as a large turkey's body size, and a wing span that has to be close to 6'.
There is a jousting field, the long story involves jousting, and in two weeks there is a tournament here.
There are Japanese, German, English, American, French, and Eastern European peoples on this camino so far, this particular aubergue was founded by a Dachau camp survivor. Of all the places so far in both our Camino's, this is only second to Granon, the church there was awe-inspiring in its simplicity, grace, and hospitality. I had a prawn and mushroom dish last night in Leon, and I am sure I found the same mushrooms today, they start out as normal white balls boiling out of the ground, and split into petals later-I saw the petal form on a steep slope and would not trade momentum for a photo, but got a good shot the earlier stages later.
Tonight is going to be an earplug night, I can tell. Several people have yet to return, but the symphony is building.
Speaking of which!...there are some very cool frogs making music in the ditches and ponds here, quite unusual...I got a movie of one such ditch so you can hear them.
Cool! The place we are in for coffee and crossaints has a laptop on the bar...no ethernet cable, so I try my WiFinder....bingo, free wireless